How to sew with knits or stretchy fabric

If you feel like sewing with knits is a stretch check out a few of these tips and tricks I so wisely know have discovered by accident that seem to make those darn stretchy fabrics play nice!

Check out:
#1- Needle, needle, needle
#2- Set the right stitch type and length
#3- Tame those hungry feed dogs
#4- Thread Counts
#5- Release a little tension would ya?

#1- Needle, needle, needle

The type of needle you use on your machine is the key to success above all else. Especially for light weight knits and jersey fabric (like t-shirts). I use a ballpoint needle (sometimes called a Jersey needle), but you can also use a stretch needle. These fancy needles have a rounded point that penetrates the fabric without catching or cutting through the yarns.

#2- Set the right stitch type and length

I'm sure you've heard a zigzag stitch recommended when sewing elastics or knits and it's because the zig lets the stitch flex and give a little with the movement of the material. This makes it easy because you don't have to stretch the fabric as you sew. The best setting for a zigzag machine is the narrowest zigzag setting (.5mm on many machines) and a stitch length of 2.5mm to 3mm. For those super thick knits you can use a longer stitch length.

For those with a straight-stitch-only machine don't worry! Just set your stitch length to a medium (2.5mm-3mm) length and it should work just fine. The only catch is when sewing knits with a straight stitch, you need to very carefully and evenly stretch the fabric from both ends. This doesn't have to be a tug-a-war, you just slightly and gently stretch the fabric as it goes under the presser foot. Make sure you're not pulling on one end or the other though, because you could end up pulling and snapping the needle. Yikes! No matter how cranky your kids are all day I doubt anyone really wants to poke their eyes out with a needle.

#3 Tame those hungry feed dogs!

If you have a differential feed system on your machine count your lucky stars! Your manual should have some info on the best setting for knits. The feed dogs are the little spikes at the plate of the machine that "feed" the fabric through while you sew. This is also what makes the knit fabrics sometimes stretch too much or pucker when they're pulled through too tightly.

How do I know what I have???

Most basic sewing machines have a single feed which feeds all layers through together, at the same time. You can test to see if yours does by taking two of the exact same size pieces of fabric and sewing a seam down the center. After you remove them from under the presser foot check the edges of the fabric to see if they are still aligned. If so, then hooray your feed is working well! If not, well shoot, those dogs are pulling either the top or the bottom piece faster than the other. No big deal, you should be able to check your manual and adjust the feed, but it'll require a little trouble shooting back and forth with test strips until you get it.

Having the feed dogs balanced will help, but if you still have too much pull or puckering you can try easing the pressure on the presser foot. I've also heard, but not yet tested that you can put a piece of paper under the fabric before you feed it through the machine to basically eliminate the feed dogs altogether! I've heard it really helps, but you'll have to make sure you're good at evenly and gently stretching the fabric through on both sides. Then, once you're done sewing you just pull the paper out of the seams.

If you're using a serger and having problems with the knits bunching, pulling or puckering, you can also check your feed dogs. Most sergers come with a differential feed knob that you can turn to strengthen or loosen as needed.

Warning about serging with knits.... the serge stitch takes away most of the stretch in the fabric, so it's actually better to sew neck openings or tightly fitted cuffs with a zigzag so they can stretch with the material over the head, hands or feet.

#4- Thread counts

The type of thread that is. Using the lightest weight possible will limit bunching. Instead of the basic cotton thread see how nylon thread works for you

#5- Release a little tension would ya?

For knit fabrics and most stretch material you'll probably need to loosen the bobbin tension, especially if you're working with cotton thread. Always test on a scrap piece of fabric after making any changes. The best stitches for a knit should lay almost flat with a slight raise. Give the fabric a little stretch to make sure the stitches don't break. If you've gone too loose you'll know because the stitches will form “loops” rather than stitches and won't lay flat.

Other random tips

• Always pre-wash knits, because they do definitely shrink.
  
• Skip the seam finishes! Most knits don't unravel much anyway and the less sewing the less room for unwanted stretch.
• Spray a little ironing starch on the ends to give them some extra stiffness while you're working.
• Sounds too basic to even say, but make sure your machine is recently oiled so the thread doesn't have extra pull coming through.
  
• Use a double row of stitches on the hem. I'm sure you've noticed that most professional knits use this and unfortunately, they're fancier than most of use SAHM sewers and use a special machine or fancy serger to make this "coverstitch." But even if you don't have a coverstitch most zigzag sewing machines can take double needles, which sews a perfect double row of stitches on the needle side of the fabric and a neat zigzag on the bottom! This stitch has more stretch than a regular stitch and looks impressively professional :) The only drawback is that when you change to a double needle you'll probably have to make some other adjustments to your needle and bobbin tensions. If you want to try this hop over and check out this tutorial for twin needle sewing here.

I hope this helps!

Please email me or comment away if you've discovered any other tips, I'd love to know!!!

And.... just because I can't possibly have a post without pictures I'll seize the opportunity to show you Sienna's favorite moment of all from our little cabin trip last week.

Sitting in an old fashion high chair and eating oreo cookies
(it was a tie between the chair or the cookies)

Drinking her "milk-ooo" out of a fancy Sienna size real glass.

Puckering like a knit fabric when we laughed at her milk mustache.

Trying desperately to hide the "hairs" of her milk mustache to get us to stop giggling at her.

Ooooh kids are so fun, can you blame us for getting our kicks where we can??

Grrr!!!

Do you ever finish a project and just when you're almost finished finally have the realization that (or at least finally admit to yourself)

"oh my gosh, I actually really hate this..."

Do you ever have it happen twice in a row?!

Maybe it's just me, but I cannot seem to make a pile of dirt that I'm happy with this week!

Take Project #1 for instance...
I knew somewhere in the first hour that I was not striking gold anytime soon with this one, but I kept trucking along until I "finished" my horrible potentially lovely masterpiece.

I kept trying to convince myself that it wasn't that bad.... the idea was great.... with a different fabric it'd be perfect....

nope.

wasn't working.

Finally my less than tactful and obliviously honest husband walks in and says,

"Ew! What is that for???"

Funny how that really was what I needed to just let go, FINALLY.

He was, however, kind enough to snap this overly flattering picture of poor lil' ol' me just before I desperately fled to Project #2
Project #2: too pathetic to tell you what it was, but suffice it to say it was my rushed, frantic attempt to rebound from the disastrous project #1...

Or just call it a predestined failure waiting to happen.

Rebounds didn't work for relationships, why should they work for sewing? Unlike Project #1, this was a proven pattern that should work for any patient and careful seamstress, but I was in a hurry and tried to cut corners... or more accurately in this case I might have tried to sloppily tuck them into a hem or two.

Yep, just not my day I guess. That or I'm starting to think that me and my sewing machine need some time apart....

Quillow Pack Tutorial

Ok, ok, twist my arm...

Of course I'll share my quillow pack tutorial with you!!

You guys knew all along that I'd post it whether you commented or not, but can you blame me for not so subtly trying to coerce you into leaving more comments???

I can't help it!

I just really love hearing from other people like what they think of my hair brained ideas or similar ideas of their own or even just how their day is going.

So please, please, PLEASE send me fun comments to read :)

Did you get that?

Ok, just checking!

Now, for the moment you all have been waiting for...
at least for the past 20 seconds after you clicked on this post

The 10 quick steps to your very own Quillow Pack (park date sold separately)

Materials

• 1 1/2 yrds each of two coordinating fabrics for the back and front of the blanket (3 yrds total)
• 1 1/2 yrds of fabric for the pillow casing and pack straps
• 1 3/4 yrds of cording or ribbon to close the pack
• Optional- extra scraps to make a front pocket on the sack
• 2 1/2 hours uninterrupted sewing time.

Assume 1/4" seam allowance unless noted otherwise.
Measurements are for a 44" x 53" blanket that folds into an 18 " x 18" pack

Here we go!
Step 1
Measure and cut the following pieces of fabric:

Two large pieces of fabric 44 1/2" x 53 1/2"
Two 18 1/2" x 20" pieces of fabric for the pillow casing Two straps 2" x 27" for the pack straps and
one strip of fabric 1 1/2" x 18" for the draw string casing on the blanket

Step 2
Sew the 2 pillow casing pieces of fabric with right sides together and flip inside out.

Optional- sew a small pocket on one side of the pillow case. You can leave it open or close it with a button, but you should do these details now.

Step 3
Make a 1" casing for the draw string on the 20" side of the pillow casing by folding the edge down so that you end up with an 18" x 18" case.
The 1" casing will be the side farthest away from the edge of the blanket when you sew the pillow case on.

Step 4
Use the finished pillow case to trace the outline for the pillow case on the top center of the blanket piece that you would like to be the "bottom" side or the side that will touch the ground.
Next, make an additional line 1" below the bottom of the pillow case square for the draw string casing to close your sack.

Step 5
Fold the small strip of 1 1/2" x 18" fabric into a 1" wide casing (or wide enough for your ribbon, cording, draw string etc) along the bottom of the pillow case outline on the bottom blanket piece.

Don't forget to leave the ends open so you can run the draw string through!

Step 6
Sew the blanket pieces with right sides together on three sides first, leaving the 44 1/2" edge with your pillow case outline open.

Before flipping right side out again, sew 13" in on each side of the 44 1/2" open side, so that you have an 18" opening to flip the blanket right side out with right in the middle of the blanket where the pillow case will go.

Step 7
Make two 1 1/2" x 27" shoulder straps.

Tuck about 1" of the end of each strap inside the blanket at the edges of the pillow case outline and pin in place.
Sew along the edge twice to secure each strap to the blanket. Once the straps are each sewn inside the blanket, close the rest of the blanket by sewing along the edge between the straps.

Step 8
Bring the other ends of the pack straps to the center of the pillow case outline along the edge of the draw string casing you created in Step 6. Pin them in place at an angle right in the center like so:

I went ahead and snipped off the tip of the triangle I created when I folded my strap at an angle. You don't have to re-hem, because it will be sewn over anyway.

Secure the straps by sewing over twice.

For now, Pin the straps along the center of the pillow case outline to keep them out of the way while sewing on the pillow case in the next step.

Step 9
Sew the pillow case onto the bottom of side of the blanket along three sides with the opening for the pack (the side with the draw string case) facing downward and unattached.
Don't forget to put the side you want to show on your pack face down so it's touching the shoulder straps. In this case I have my pocket side facing down, because that's what I want to be on the outside of my pack when I fold the quillow up.

Step 10
Use a safety pin to pull your cording, ribbon, string etc through the draw string casing on the pillow case and bottom side of your blanket.

Tie knots at the ends of the string to keep it from sneaking back into your casing.

Repeat for the front and pack casings

And that's all!

She's ready for testing.... Fold in thirds like I showed you with my first pack. Or by clicking here.

Does it work?

Great!

Onto phase II of the testing... pull the draw strings to close the pack and throw it onto your shoulders.

Does it fit?

Well... ok, so maybe mine wasn't designed for this size model, but you get the idea!


Last but not least, head to the park with your quillow pack full of all your park date essentials...

Don't forget the BUBBLES!!

The kiddos love this stuff, even if they can't quite figure out how to blow just right...

Btw, recognize the fairy ballerina dress Sienna's wearing? Yup, we can't get it off her....

A park date in a quillow pack

When it's not hot enough to melt your shoes to the sidewalk our favorite playdate is a picnic in the park with our friends.

Swings, slides, fresh air, green grass, sand pits, splash pads, food all over the ground that you don't have to mop up.... what couldn't be wonderful about this?

The packing.

The ridiculous, you'd-think-we-were-packing-up-our-house-and-moving-to-the-park amount of stuff you have to tote along with you for a morning of fun. Sack lunches, water bottles, sun screen, hats, glasses, sand toys, picnic blanket, swim suit, towel, diapers, wipes, stroller, your sanity...

(Look at our stroller! I was lucky to have enough room for at least one kid.)

Even the most skilled husband car packer would never be able to squeeze, pile, shove all that stuff onto my cargo ship of a double jogging stroller. I feel like a Dr. Seuss book waiting to happen as I clench my teeth around my car keys and try to juggle a parade of park gear and children from the car to a shady spot to set up camp, I mean our blanket.

The solution:

My remix of the "quillow" have you heard of those? Quilts that fold into a pillow pouch? Maybe we were the only really cool kids whose mom made us take those to sleep overs.... well, this version of the quillow is more than just any ordinary quilt that becomes a pillow....

I prefer to think of this bad boy as a special, top secret sack pack with a hidden identity!

At first glance it's a normal sling back pack, but as you unload and unfold you see it magically transforms into a picnic blanket!


And right back into your secret pack by simply folding across in thirds like so

And then again in thirds vertically until you neatly tuck the blanket inside the pack......flip right side out and...

viola!

Now it's a sack pack all over again!

Now fill 'er up with all those sand toys, sunscreen, sanity and more!

woah!

Now that is what I call a walk in the park!

What do you think?
Will share a tutorial for comments!!! (hehe, I'm so sneaky!)

A Totally Turtle Tutorial

A turtle pincushion that is :)

Would you believe it if I told you that until now I didn't have a pincushion?? Could you imagine sewing without one?

I couldn't any longer...

Soooo... I dreamed up this little swimmer last night and it only took me an hour to stitch him to life during naps today.

It's so easy I feel silly for making a tutorial, but you know, sometimes it's just nice to have things laid out, so you don't have to think about anything. Hopefully this will be helpful :)

Here's all you need:

• Felt, canvus, wool, burlap or some sort of heavier weight material for the outside
• Needle, thread, sewing essentials (you can use a machine or easily hand stitch this one)
• Mircofilling or just scraps of fabric, whatever you have laying around
• An hour or less!

Ready??

Step 1

Trace and cut out a "fat" oval onto your felt or heavy fabric

Step 2

Use the first oval to trace an cut out a second over slightly bigger than the first. I made mine about a 1/4 inch bigger all the way around.

Step 3

Draw and cut out 2 little arms, 2 legs, 2 circles the same size for the head and a tail.

Step 4

Use a button or small circle to cut 15 or so circles or square or whatever shapes you like to decorate your turtle shell.

Step 5

Sew the circles onto the larger of the two ovals.

Or... since you won't be washing this

(shhhhh don't tell anyone I'm going to say this, but...)

just glue those puppies on there!

Step 6

Sew the two head circles together and stuff with scrap pieces of fabric or stuffing. Attach the arms, legs, tail and head to the smaller of the ovals. I say "attach" because you could sew or glue :)

Step 6.5 (optional)

To throw in a little extra flair, sew a gathering stitch around the larger of the ovals to make a slight ruffle on the top shell.

Step 7

Starting at the tail of the smaller oval (which will be the bottom) sew on the larger oval (shell) going in one direction and stopping at the head. Stop. Go back to the tail and sew in the opposite direction, so that the opening you leave for stuffing is at the head.

A little tip- Use chop sticks to poke the stuffing all the way to the back.

Step 8

Hand stitch the rest of the shell closed around the head.

He loves his new home!

And Sienna loooooves him...

Why do I have the feeling I'll be making stuffed turtle dolls soon??